Before mechanical watches became the universal standard for timekeeping, and long before Rolex earned its reputation as a luxury brand, various governments and military units equipped their elite soldiers with Rolex watches as part of their standard gear. These watches were favored for their durability, widespread availability, and Rolex’s willingness to customize them, making it unsurprising that what are now considered luxury items were once essential tools for soldiers.
Today, the landscape has shifted. The military-issued Rolex Submariner, affectionately known as the “mil-Sub,” has evolved into one of the most legendary and highly sought-after pieces in modern watch collecting. Similarly, the Tudor mil-Sub, produced by Rolex’s sister company, has garnered significant attention and value among enthusiasts.
The rarity of these watches makes finding one in excellent, authentic condition akin to discovering buried treasure. While it was once believed that the story of these specialized watches concluded in the late 1970s, recent developments have shown that their legacy continues. Although modern militaries no longer routinely issue mechanical watches, certain units still place special orders with fake Rolex, Tudor, and other manufacturers. Tudor, in particular, maintains this tradition, whereas Rolex appears to have ceased production of these specialized models in the early 2010s, though definitive information is scarce due to the company’s discreet nature.
Other watchmakers, such as Bremont with its dedicated special projects division, also collaborate on similar orders. However, Rolex and Tudor stand out due to their longstanding history of producing military watches and their esteemed status in the luxury watch market.
Exclusive Military Editions: Rarity and Prestige
Military-issued watches are typically commemorative pieces available for purchase by current and former members of the respective units. These watches are often engraved with the unit’s name, making them unique and personal to the wearer. Despite their commemorative nature, these watches are professional-grade watches that command high prices in the auction market.
Tudor has been particularly active in supplying militaries worldwide with its Submariner models, resulting in numerous “correct” Tudor mil-Subs. Notably, the French Marine Nationale’s editions, often referred to as the “Tudor M.N.,” are among the most renowned. From the 1950s to the 1990s, Tudor produced various Submariner references for navies around the globe, incorporating features like oversized crowns and enhanced dials for better underwater visibility.
Rolex has also contributed to this legacy with models like the “Special Reconnaissance Regiment” Submariner Ref. 116610 and the “Polipetto” Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600. These limited editions, often featuring unique engravings and design elements, highlight the brand’s commitment to producing watches that meet the rigorous demands of military operations.
Beyond replica Rolex and Tudor, specialized collaborations have produced unique military watches. For example, Project X Designs partnered with former British special operations personnel to create customized versions of the Rolex Submariner, blending vintage aesthetics with modern functionality. Similarly, Tudor has released limited editions like the “Platinum Jubilee RaSP” Black Bay Fifty-Eight Ref. 79030B and the “Para” Pelagos Ref. M25600TN, each commemorating significant milestones and honoring the service of specific military units.
These collaborations often result in watches that are not only functional but also carry deep symbolic meanings, reflecting the heritage and achievements of the units they represent. The meticulous craftsmanship and limited production runs ensure that these watches remain highly coveted by collectors and military personnel alike.
The enduring legacy of clone Rolex and Tudor in the realm of military watches is a testament to their exceptional craftsmanship and the brands’ ability to adapt to the unique needs of elite military units. These watches, once practical tools for soldiers, have transcended their original purpose to become prized collectibles and symbols of prestige. As limited editions continue to emerge, the fascination with military-issued Rolex and Tudor replica watches is likely to grow, solidifying their place in both horological history and contemporary watch culture.